What is the Best Skincare for Dry Skin?

April 30, 2025 | 10 min read

AUTHOR

Vidha Saad

B Pharm

Editor : Dr Jeet Patel MBBS MRCGP FRACGP MMed (Skin Cancer)

A recent survey by the American Academy of Dermatology found that 60% of people mistakenly identify their skin type, leading to ineffective skincare routines. For dry skin, this misunderstanding can worsen irritation, flaking, and discomfort. But the good news? A well-tailored routine—rooted in science—can completely transform how your skin feels and looks.

Let’s walk you through a dermatologist-informed, ingredient-focused routine that explains not just what to use, but why to use it.

Index

Glossary | FAQs | References

Understanding Dry Skin

Dry skin is a skin type, not just a temporary condition. It's characterized by a lack of natural oils (sebum), leading to flakiness, rough texture, tightness, or even cracking.

It differs from:

Dehydrated skin, which lacks water (not oil)
Sensitive skin, which overreacts to ingredients or environmental triggers

Understanding these distinctions ensures you choose the right products and avoid unnecessary irritation.

Why Skin Gets Dry

Dry skin, or xerosis, can result from a variety of environmental, physiological, and behavioral factors. Common causes include:

Weather: Exposure to cold, dry air, especially during winter, can lead to transepidermal water loss (TEWL), resulting in dry and rough skin texture.
Hot Showers: Frequent exposure to hot water can remove the skin’s natural lipids, compromising the skin barrier and leading to dryness.
Over-cleansing: Using harsh cleansers or cleansing too often can disrupt the skin's acid mantle and natural protective oils, resulting in tightness and dryness.
Aging: With age, the sebaceous glands reduce sebum production, which decreases the skin’s natural moisture retention ability.
Genetics: Individuals may be genetically predisposed to dry skin due to lower levels of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) or lipid content in the stratum corneum.
Unsupervised product Usage: Skincare products that contain high concentrations of exfoliating acids or irritating ingredients may weaken the skin barrier and contribute to dryness.

Key Ingredients to Look For

When managing dry skin, it is important to use formulations that support barrier repair and enhance hydration. Effective ingredients include:

Hyaluronic Acid: A powerful humectant that attracts and retains water molecules, enhancing skin hydration.
Glycerin: A well-researched humectant that draws moisture into the skin and maintains hydration levels.
Ceramides: Essential lipids that help restore the skin’s barrier function and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Squalane: A stable, non-comedogenic emollient that mimics natural sebum and helps maintain moisture balance.
Panthenol (Provitamin B5): A skin-conditioning agent that supports skin barrier repair and improves softness.
Urea (in low concentrations): Functions as both a humectant and mild keratolytic agent, promoting hydration while aiding in the removal of dry, flaky skin.

Avoid These Ingredients

Some ingredients are about as welcome as a paper cut:

Alcohol (denatured, ethanol): Often found in toners and setting sprays—dries your skin faster.
Sulfates (like SLS): Used in foaming cleansers and shampoos. If it bubbles like crazy, it's probably not your friend.
Fragrance: Smells great, but can cause irritation, especially if your skin is already dry or sensitive.
Strong Acids (like glycolic acid >10%): These can be too harsh, breaking down your already-struggling barrier.
Physical exfoliants: Walnut shell scrubs? A medieval torture device for dry skin.

Retinoids and Dryness: Friend or Foe?

Retinoids, such as tretinoin, adapalene, and retinal, are celebrated for their ability to clear acne, diminish pigmentation, and smooth fine lines. But as powerful as they are, they often come with an unintended side effect: dryness, flaking, and irritation—especially in the beginning.

Why Retinoids Can Lead to Dry Skin:

Increased cell turnover: Retinoids speed up the shedding of dead skin cells, which can temporarily strip away your skin's natural moisture.
Barrier disruption: Overuse or high concentrations can damage your skin’s protective barrier, leading to dehydration.
Reduced tolerance: Sensitive skin or dry skin types may be more prone to reactions, even with lower doses.

Tretinoin and other retinoids can absolutely be your skin’s best friend—when used correctly, gradually, and ideally under professional supervision. With the right approach, you can enjoy the benefits without the burn.

How to Make Retinoids Work for You Without the Dryness:

Start slow: Begin by applying 1–2 times a week and gradually increase frequency to build tolerance.
The sandwich method: First, layer on a moisturizer → then apply the retinoid → and follow with another layer of moisturizer. This helps lock in hydration.
Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate: Use humectants like hyaluronic acid and emollients that draw moisture into your skin.
Avoid harsh actives: Steer clear of mixing with exfoliating AHAs, BHAs, or strong Vitamin C while using retinoids.
Simplify your routine: Keep the rest of your skincare routine soothing and gentle to complement the potency of the retinoid.

The Power of Compounding for Smoother Skin:

Compounding allows for a more tailored approach—when tretinoin is blended with hydrating agents like hyaluronic acid, the drying and irritating effects of retinoids are minimized. This personalized formulation is one of the many advantages of compounded skincare, designed to address your skin’s unique needs without the harsh side effects.

💡 Pro Tip: If you feel burning rather than just a gentle tingling, it's a sign to reduce usage and give your skin some relief.

Step-by-Step AM Routine

A morning routine should protect and hydrate your skin.

Gentle Cleanser: Use a sulfate-free, non-foaming cleanser.
Hydrating Toner (Optional): Choose one with glycerin or rose water. Your toner should be alcohol free.
Serum: Look for hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, or panthenol.
Moisturizer: Choose one with ceramides, squalane, or shea butter.
Sunscreen (SPF 30+): Even on cloudy days!

Alt Text: Woman applying moisturizer to cheeks in morning light

Step-by-Step PM Routine

At night, focus on repair and replenishment.

Double Cleanse (if wearing makeup): Use a cleansing balm followed by a gentle cleanser.
Hydrating Mist or Toner: Rehydrate after cleansing.
Serum with Ceramides or Peptides
Moisturizer: A thicker one than AM
Occlusive (if needed): Apply Vaseline or a balm to lock in moisture

Ever wondered why your AM and PM skincare routines shouldn’t be the same?
It all comes down to how your skin functions at different times of the day. Your morning routine should focus on protection—shielding your skin from environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution. In contrast, your evening routine should prioritize repair, allowing active ingredients to support your skin’s natural regeneration process overnight.

For a clearer breakdown of how your skincare needs shift from morning to night, check out our blog - Day & Night: Why Your Skincare Routine Should Shift With the Sun

Alt Text: Woman using tretinoin sandwich method at night

Seasonal Adjustments

Winter: Your skin turns into a moisture miser. Use thick creams, sleep with a humidifier, and avoid boiling hot showers.
Summer: Switch to lighter, gel-based moisturizers. But don’t let the heat fool you—hydration is still crucial.

Lifestyle Habits That Help

Hydration: No surprises here—drink your water. Your skin is the last organ to get hydrated, so keep sipping.
Diet: Omega-3s from salmon, flaxseed, and walnuts help repair the barrier from within.
Sleep: Beauty sleep is real. Your skin regenerates at night, so don’t skimp.
Humidity: If your room feels like the Sahara, use a humidifier. Your skin will thank you.

Dermatologist Tips & Red Flags

Red, flaking patches that don’t go away? Might be eczema—see a dermatologist.
Persistent itching may indicate a deeper skin condition.
Tightness even after moisturizing could mean you're using products that are too stripping or lack occlusives.

Glossary

Humectant: A substance that draws moisture from the environment into the skin
Occlusive: Ingredients like petrolatum or lanolin that seal in moisture
Emollient: Soften skin and improve texture (e.g., shea butter)
Tretinoin: A prescription retinoid used for acne and anti-aging
SLS: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, a harsh foaming agent
Lactic Acid: A gentle AHA used for mild exfoliation
Sebum: The natural oil produced by your skin
Skin Barrier: The outermost layer of your skin, crucial for moisture retention

FAQs

1. What is the best skincare routine for dry skin?

A great routine includes a gentle, non-stripping cleanser, hydrating toner, serum (with hyaluronic acid or ceramides), and a rich moisturizer followed by sunscreen in the morning. At night, opt for barrier-repairing ingredients, and don’t be afraid of layering with occlusives like Vaseline. Think of it as tucking your skin into bed.

2. How often should I exfoliate if I have dry skin?

Once a week is more than enough. Use a gentle chemical exfoliant like lactic acid. Physical scrubs? Only if you want your skin to write a complaint letter.

3. Can tretinoin cause dry skin?

Yes. Tretinoin can be both a hero and a menace—effective but drying, especially at first. If your personalized treatment contains it, buffer it with moisturizers or apply it less frequently until your skin adjusts.

4. Are oils good for dry skin?

Absolutely. Oils like squalane or jojoba act like a moisture seal. But apply them after your moisturizer—think of them as the top coat in your hydration manicure.

5. What’s the difference between dry and dehydrated skin?

Dry skin is thirsty for oil; dehydrated skin is parched for water. One needs emollients, the other needs humectants. And yes, you can have oily but dehydrated skin.

6. Should I use toner if I have dry skin?

Only if it’s alcohol-free and full of hydrating ingredients. Think of it like a refreshing drink before the main course.

7. What kind of cleanser is best for dry skin?

Cream or milk cleansers win here. If your cleanser foams like a bubble bath, it’s probably too harsh.

8. Do I need sunscreen if I have dry skin?

Yes, and double yes. UV rays worsen dryness and break down collagen. Look for hydrating SPF formulas with squalane, glycerin, or even ceramides.

9. Is Vaseline good for dry skin?

It’s a barrier-repairing classic. Use it as a final layer at night to seal everything in—especially in winter.

10. How long does it take to fix dry skin?

Improvements can be seen in as little as a week, but full transformation takes consistency. Treat your routine like a daily ritual, not a quick fix.

References

Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE, et al. (2007). Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology, 143(5), 606–612. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515510/
Kim, S., Ly, B. K., Ha, J. H., Carson, K., Hawkins, S., Kang, S., & Chien, A. L. (2022). A consistent skin care regimen leads to objective and subjective improvements in dry human skin: Investigator-blinded randomized clinical trial. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 33(1), 300–305. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2020.1751037
American Academy of Dermatology. (n.d.). Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin. Retrieved April 18, 2025, from https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/dermatologists-tips-relieve-dry-skin
Lodén, M. (2003). Dry skin and skin moisturizers. Clinics in Dermatology, 21(2), 123–127. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0738-081X(02)00300-5
Mayo Clinic. (n.d.). Dry skin – Diagnosis and treatment. Retrieved April 18, 2025, from https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/dry-skin/diagnosis-treatment/drc-20353891

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