Decoding the 10-step skincare routine: Necessity or Overkill?

The 10-step skincare routine. Some people swear by it, while others wonder if it’s just an elaborate way to burn money and kill time before bed. If you’ve ever felt overwhelmed by the sheer number of serums, mists, and creams staring at you from a store shelf, you’re not alone. 

Lets explore in a deep way to understand the merits of such an long process. 

 

What is a 10-step routine?

Originally popularized by Korean skincare, the 10-step routine is all about layering products strategically to maximize hydration, nourishment, and protection. The steps generally include:

1. Oil Cleanser – This first step uses an oil-based cleanser to effectively break down and lift away the day’s buildup—removing even stubborn makeup and the heavy sunscreen residue. It preps your skin by ensuring that all oil-soluble impurities are eliminated, making way for a more thorough cleansing.

2. Water-Based Cleanser – Following the oil cleanser, the water-based cleanser works to rinse away any residual dirt, sweat, and impurities that water can dissolve. This dual cleansing method ensures your skin is perfectly clean without stripping it of its natural moisture.

3. Exfoliator – An exfoliator gently removes dead skin cells, revealing a smoother, brighter complexion beneath. It’s important to note that exfoliation should be done sparingly—ideally not daily—to avoid irritation and maintain the skin’s natural barrier.

4. Toner – The toner balances the skin’s pH levels and refreshes your complexion. It acts as a primer, ensuring that your skin is perfectly prepped to absorb the hydrating and active ingredients in the following steps, thus enhancing their efficacy.

5. Essence – This step delivers a concentrated boost of moisture and active ingredients in a lightweight formula. An essence penetrates deeply into the skin, addressing issues like dullness and dehydration without feeling heavy or sticky.

6. Serum/Treatment – Formulated with potent active ingredients, the serum or treatment step is designed to address targeted issues—be it acne, fine lines, or uneven skin tone. This concentrated formula works quickly and effectively, delivering active ingredients directly where they’re needed most.

7. Sheet Mask – A sheet mask is an optional, yet enjoyable step that infuses the skin with a surge of moisture and nourishing ingredients. It’s like a mini spa treatment that not only hydrates but also calms and revitalizes the skin, making it perfect for a quick boost.

8. Eye Cream –  The under-eye area is particularly sensitive and prone to early signs of aging. An eye cream is specially formulated to address issues such as dark circles, puffiness, and fine lines, ensuring that this delicate area receives the extra care it deserves.

9. Moisturizer –A good moisturizer forms a protective barrier on your skin, preventing moisture loss throughout the day or night. This step is crucial for maintaining hydration, ensuring that all the previously applied products remain effective by keeping your skin plump and supple.

10. Sunscreen (AM) / Sleeping Pack (PM) – In the morning, sunscreen is essential as it shields your skin from harmful UV rays, preventing premature aging and hyperpigmentation. At night, a sleeping pack works to lock in all the hydration and active ingredients, supporting your skin's natural repair processes while you rest.

At first glance, it seems like a well-thought-out science-backed ritual. But is it really necessary for everyone?

 

The science behind skincare layering

Each step in the routine serves a specific purpose. Oil-based cleansers help dissolve makeup and sunscreen, while water-based cleansers remove sweat and debris. Exfoliants accelerate cell turnover, and toners balance pH levels to improve absorption of subsequent products. Serums and essences deliver active ingredients in concentrated forms, and moisturizers ensure hydration retention. Finally, sunscreen is essential for protecting the skin from UV damage.

While layering products can enhance effectiveness, research also suggests that overuse of active ingredients can lead to skin sensitivity, irritation, or even ingredient interactions that reduce efficacy. This is where understanding your skin type becomes crucial.

The Pros - Who Doesn’t Love Fancy Bottles?

• It Feels Luxurious
  Indulging in a 10-step skincare routine, where each product is carefully layered, makes you feel like royalty. If Cleopatra had an Instagram, she’d undoubtedly share her routine with #GlowLikeAQueen.

• Science Supports Layering
  Numerous dermatologists agree that layering skincare in the proper order enhances absorption and effectiveness. Active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and ceramides work best when applied in a strategic sequence rather than haphazardly.

• Tailored to Different Skin Concerns
  A multi-step routine allows for customization to address various skin needs. Whether you require extra hydration for dry skin or targeted treatments like BHA or niacinamide for acne-prone skin, each step can be tailored for optimal results.

• Self-Care Ritual
  Skincare isn’t just about achieving visible results—it’s also a moment for relaxation and self-care. The gentle act of massaging creams and serums into your face can transform your routine into a meditative, rewarding experience.

• Prevention Over Cure
  Instead of waiting for skin issues to appear, a structured routine acts as a proactive measure. Consistent care helps prevent early signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and breakouts, keeping your skin healthy and radiant.

 

The Cons – Or, Why Your Wallet Is Crying

• Time Consuming Commitment
  If you’ve ever attempted this at 11:30 PM, you know the struggle of questioning every life decision while massaging serum #3 into your face.  This routine demands significant time, especially burning late into the night.

• Expensive Hobby
  Maintaining a full 10-step regimen can be expensive, with quality products often costing as much as a small vacation. This can become a financial burden. 
  

• Too Many Ingredients, Too Many Problems
  Using too many active ingredients at once increases the risk of irritation, redness, and breakouts. Certain combinations, like retinol and AHAs, can be too harsh for some skin types, leading to more harm than benefit.
  

• More Isn’t Always Better
  Excessive layering doesn’t always enhance results. Overloading the skin can disrupt its natural barrier, causing dryness, inflammation, or increased sensitivity rather than delivering the desired glow and long-term benefits.
  

• Sustainability Concerns
  Excessive skincare consumption contributes to plastic waste and carbon emissions. Sustainable & minimalist skincare advocates recommend a streamlined routine to reduce environmental impact while still maintaining effective skin health.

The 10-Step Routine vs. Formial 

With the rise of "skinimalism", many experts now argue that fewer, well-chosen products can be just as effective as an elaborate multi-step routine. Instead of layering multiple serums and creams, targeted formulations can simplify skincare without compromising results.

At Formial Labs, we take this approach even further with prescription skincare tailored to your skin’s exact needs. Unlike over-the-counter routines that rely on trial and error, our dermatologist-designed formulations combine potent, medical-grade ingredients into a streamlined, effective regimen.

What Do Dermatologists Say?

Many dermatologists advocate for a streamlined approach, emphasizing the importance of cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection as non-negotiable steps. They also warn against excessive exfoliation and layering multiple active ingredients without understanding potential interactions.

Who Should Try It?

If you enjoy skincare as a ritual, love testing new products, and don’t mind the time and cost, go for it! But if your skincare routine already feels like a chore, you might be happier with a simpler approach.

The Verdict

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer to skincare. A 10-step routine can be incredibly effective when done right, offering hydration, targeted treatments, and long-term skin benefits. However, it’s not a necessity for achieving healthy skin.

What truly matters is understanding your skin’s needs and creating a routine that works for you. Some people thrive with a multi-step ritual, while others prefer a simplified approach with fewer, high-quality products. The key takeaways:

• If you love the ritual and enjoy skincare as self-care, a multi-step routine could be a great fit—just ensure you’re layering ingredients correctly.
• If you’re looking for efficiency, a minimalist routine with the right mix of actives can deliver the same results in fewer steps.

Regardless of the path you choose, consistency, hydration, and sun protection are the pillars of good skincare. Whether it’s 10 steps or just 3, an intentional and well-formulated routine will always give you better results than following trends.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

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Glossary

Hyaluronic Acid: A naturally occurring substance in the skin that retains moisture and helps maintain a plump, youthful appearance.

Niacinamide: A form of vitamin B3 known for improving skin texture, reducing inflammation, and regulating oil production.

Ceramides: Lipid molecules that help form the skin’s protective barrier and lock in moisture.

Skinimalism: A minimalist approach to skincare that emphasizes fewer, high-quality products over an elaborate multi-step routine.

Targeted Formulations: Skincare products designed to address specific concerns using concentrated active ingredients.

 

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References

• American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). "How to Layer Skincare Products for Best Results." www.aad.org
• National Library of Medicine. "Efficacy of Multi-Step Skincare Routines and Active Ingredient Interactions." www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
• Harvard Health Publishing. "Overuse of Skincare Products and Skin Irritation." www.health.harvard.edu
• Charlotte Cho, The Little Book of Skincare, HarperCollins, 2015.
• Into The Gloss. "The Rise of Skinimalism: Why Less is More in Skincare." www.intothegloss.com
• Soko Glam. "What is the 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine?" www.sokoglam.com
  

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Credits

Photo by Ehsan Ahmadi on Unsplash